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KNOW THE DIFFERENCE between a stalagmite and a stalactite?
A geography lesson many years ago cleared any confusion from my mind: Stalagmites
grow upwards and stalactites downwards—the way your tights might
fall down, explained the teacher.
Cango Caves in Oudtshoorn was the world’s best example of this geological
phenomenon. The patterns and formations, the colors of the limestone rock, and
the crystal clear water is a beautiful sight to behold. Do try and conquer
the entrance to the narrow Devil’s Chimney.
T he famous caves
of South Africa, including the Cango Caves in the Karoo area. The total
length of this underground attraction is 3 miles. It is said that the word "Kango"
is derived from the San or Khoi language (relatives of the Bushmen), and means "
Water between the Hills." Karoo is a Hottentot word meaning "extremely dry or
bitter."
This wonder of the world is located near
Oudtshoorn,
270 miles east Cape Town. The caves are said to have been inhabited for thousands of
years.
Underground Music? Just inside the cave's broad
entrance is a huge underground theatre area, where musical concerts can be
staged for up to 2,000 visitors, a special attraction during local holidays and
festivals. As you might imagine, the acoustics are almost perfect.
A National Treasure. Dedicated as a National
Monument in the early part of the last century, the incredible Cango Caves have
a variety of unique halls and chambers with limestone formations such as the
Pipe Organ, Cleopatra's Needle, Fairy Palace, Throne Room, Bridal Chamber, Roman
Candle and Crystal Forest - names that conjure up all sorts of impressions for
the imaginative visitor.
Guided cave tours take up to an hour and a half. Millions of years . . . and no time goes by
. . . only transformation of limestone that takes formation into one of
the most spectacular scenic tourist attraction in South Africa. This is
one reason why Oudtshoorn is worth a detour ! . .
There is more than one section to the caves,
but only the main section is open to the public in order to preserve these
majestic formations. There are certain parts where one has to get on all
fours or even crawl around on your stomach, - (devil's
chimney), to get to see all the viewable areas in the cave .
. .
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Cango Caves in
Oudtshoorn was the world’s best example of this geological phenomenon.
Later, when I visited them for the first time, their patterns and
formations, the colours of the limestone rock, and the crystal clear
water left an indelible impression on me. I remember turning back at the
entrance to the narrow Devil’s Chimney. I couldn’t go on; it was too
claustrophobic.
“Do you know,” says Marie, taking us over the Outeniqua Pass that winds
between George and Oudtshoorn, “they’ve discovered another three caves
in the last 35 years? But they aren’t open to the public. They’re too
delicate, too fragile.” My travel companion launches into the story of
one Johnnie van Wassenaar, whose
family had acted as guides for the CANGO CAVES over many years.
In the late 1900s he was said to have travelled 16 miles underground and
found a cavern. But no evidence of it exists and no one has since found
it.
 The
small town of Oudtshoorn is perched on the edge of the Klein Karoo on
Route 62, surrounded by aweinspiring mountain passes. It first came to
world attention not so much for its intriguing caves but on the whim of
high fashion and the largest flightless bird in the
world—the ostrich.
Oudtshoorn’s story is one of fabulous fortunes made and lost, family
feuds, homes and farms lost after being in the family for generations.
The bottom dropped out of the feather market as the whim of fashion
changed the industry forever.
Oudtshoorn is and was originally an agricultural area, formally laid out
in 1847. The farmers did not initially realise the fortunes they’d make
selling feathers from the area’s wild ostriches. “As world demand grew,
and farmers started capturing, penning and breeding the birds, so did
the prices at the auctions rise,” explains Marie. “There was even talk
of a secret government mission to Algeria to steal eggs to enrich the
gene pool back home.”
At the height of the economic boom in the late 19th century, a large
picture hat adorned with feathers by an expert plumiere could cost as
much as a horse and carriage. French haute couture particularly
preferred feathers from the Karoo as they were of an especially high
quality. With the newfound wealth came the rise of the OSTRICH
FEATHER PALACES. Though they were made from local sandstone,
everything else was imported—even the stone masons were brought in from
Wales. The ornamental towers on some of the
single-storey houses became larger as the feather barons tried to outdo
each other. Some of these homes still stand, lovingly restored and
maintained. |
With the outbreak of World War
1 and Henry Ford’s open car—that
required smaller hats—the bottom fell out of the market and brought ruin
to many of the barons. Although feathers and feather boas are back in
fashion, often dyed, the swing in the ostrich industry has been towards
OSTRICH LEATHER goods—shoes, handbags, belts and fine luggage.
More recently the demand for OSTRICH MEAT has risen; it’s low in
cholesterol and fat, making it a healthy alternative to beef. Ostrich
farming is still very much part of the economy of the Oudtshoorn area.
But it’s also a big Tourist Attraction. Visitors flock to show farms
like SAFARI OSTRICH FARM AND HIGHGATE OSTRICH FARM, where
they can taste ostrich meat at their restaurants and learn about these
strange birds. You can even go for a ride on one.
At RIETFONTEIN OSTRICH PALACE on the Calitzdorp Road, records
show the farm—in the Potgieter family for three generations— was bought
from the proceeds of the sale of a handful of wild ostrich feathers
almost two centuries ago. Here the curious can see the workings of the
farm, or take time out from the heat at the restaurant in one of its
restored buildings.
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‘Oudtshoorn came to
world attention not so
much for its intriguing
caves but on the whim
of high fashion and the
largest flightless bird in
the world ...’ |
Another natural
wonder in the area are the RED
MOUNTAINS; the ruddy-coloured rocks of the Red Hills are petrified
sediments laid down by floodwaters about 70 million years ago. Add to
this the diverse flora and the fact that the original fauna is being
restored. And where better to overnight than at the peaceful RED
STONE HILLS guest house or RED MOUNTAIN NATURE RESERVE, among
others in the area.
You might want to visit Calitzdorp, South Africas’ ‘Port Capital’. A
stop at DE KRANS offers a chance to buy some of their Vintage
Reserve 2003 (5-star rated in John Platter’s 2006 guide) if you are
lucky enough. Their last four Vintage Reserve Ports have all won double
gold at Veritas. BOPLAAS, winner of numerous awards for their
Ruby and Tawny ports, have also recently won the Best Red Wine Blend
Trophy for their Sauvignon/Shiraz blend at the SA Young Wine Show. This
is the fi rst time that a Klein Karoo cellar has won a SA champion with
a red blend table wine. Don’t forget Grundheim Wines
for potsill brandies or Muscadel.
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A new addition to
this area in the foothills of the Swartberg is luxury lodge and game
farm, BUFFELSDRIFT. It’s home to the big four, among other game,
and numerous bird species. On the way you might want to make a special
effort to drive through the spectacular SWARTBERG PASS. Built by
Thomas Bains in 1888 and declared a National Monument in its centenary,
this narrow gravel road winds
through the mountains in a series of twisting bends. While it’s not for
the faint hearted, the breathtaking scenery is well worth the detour.
The drive could take an hour, but should a thick mist come down
one can crawl along for near on two. of stories, hunched over the
wheel and praying silently that we don’t meet a local farmer hurtling up
the other side in his 4x4. |
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